For traditional nigiri, served in pairs, the sushi rice is hand-formed into a small clump, and the fish is sliced and pressed on top of it. In some cases, nigiri has a small strip of toasted seaweed (nori) to bind the whole mixture together. Bluefin’s new American-style nigiri is also served in pairs, but it doesn’t rely on rice — rather, it is marked by a creative use of condiments. (Think spicy mayo, ginger dressing, garlic paste, and butter — not ketchup and mustard!) Being American, it is a bit heftier than the traditional varieties. I recommend trying them all, but if you only try one, make it the Kracken. Nori surrounds chopped octopus mixed with spicy Kewpie mayonnaise. It is then topped with a dollop of even spicier sriracha sauce. The tiniest sliver of lime rind is nestled under the sriracha and, despite its size, holds its own, giving the roll an amazing burst of citrus flavor. Oh, it makes me proud to be an American.