Did you hear? Sweet Grass got a new menu, and chef Ryan Trimm says it’s all about fall:
“I always love the first burst of fall produce,” Trimm confesses. “Butternut squash, pumpkins, collards, mustard greens. Right now I got brown crowder peas coming out of my ears.”
Who could resist an invitation like that? So yesterday, I flung a warm scarf over my shoulder and headed down to Cooper Young for a taste. It all started with a cocktail.
The Old Orchard ($8)—a concoction of apple-cinnamon whiskey, orange bitters, and lemon peel—is just the thing to warm up a chilly autumn afternoon. It’s sweet but not too sweet, with deliciously dark notes from the bitters and lemon peel.
Next, we tried the Fried Oysters ($12), which—besides looking good in photos, see above—also happen to be compulsively edible. They’re served with pickled squash slaw and a lemon crème fraiche that’s good enough to eat with a spoon.
But the real show stealer was the Dirty Pig Fries ($13), a recipe that Trimm brought over from the menu at Southward, which closed last month. Mixed into a haystack of thick-cut french fries, you’ll find braised pork shoulder, sautéed onions, pecorino romano, and sriracha—plus a spicy mix of collards and mustard greens.
Ladies and gentlemen, it’s duh-licious. Like fancy poutine or chili-cheese fries for grownups. And it’s got greens in it, so it counts as a vegetable, right?
“Oh, definitely.” Trimm confirms.
Of course, it wouldn’t be Sweet Grass without some tasty local produce. Sure enough, the butternut squash is from Hanna Farm in Luxora, AR. The collards and mustard greens are from Woodson Ridge Farms in Oxford, MS. And the braised pork shoulder is from Newman Farms in Myrtle, MO.
But wait—what’s that you say? Ryan Trimm is starting his own CSA in November? Who told you that? You certainly didn’t hear it from us *wink*.