Food Notes

by Louisa Koeppel

Up With Tuna
On November 21st, Playhouse on the Square will begin their holiday season with the gender-bending comedy, A Tuna Christmas. And on Saturday, November 22nd, in conjunction with the show's second go on the boards, the Playhouse will be holding a tuna-casserole cook-off. Fredric Koeppel of The Commercial Appeal (and the man responsible for half my gene makeup and the maker of one killer tuna melt, by the way) will join me to judge this much-anticipated tasting. My father and I have stood by each other on numerous occasions to taste wines, liquors, and foods. We have not, however, experienced the varieties of tuna casseroles that are bound to come our way. Entrants should make enough for six and should bring their creations warmed, since other theatregoers will be invited to have a bite. Also, everyone who enters will receive a free ticket to the show. Judging starts at 7:15 p.m., but contest participants should arrive between 6:30 and 7 p.m. Winners will be announced during intermission. For more information, call Playhouse on the Square at 725-0776.

Full of Beans
There's bean the food and Bean the man. The latter, Mr. Bean, is a wildly popular comic character on English television played by Rowan Atkinson. In recognition of the arrival of Mr. Bean's movie, Bean, to America, Malco's Forest Hill cinema and the Food Bank are offering discount tickets to the show on Wednesday and Thursday, November 12th and 13th. Three cans of beans (or any other canned food) will get you into the evening showings of Bean for just $3.50. And if that weren't enough, one person at each show will win a Beanie Baby.

Three's Company
Memphis Pizza Cafe, which has been voted best non-chain pizza joint by The Memphis Flyer Readers' Poll for several years, has opened a new store. The new cafe can be found at 7604 West Farmington Road, where ZuZu's used to be. It is scheduled to open this week. The menu has not changed, so you can still find the Ultimate Cheese Pizza and the ever-popular Alternative Pizza, whether you go to the original Pizza Cafe in Overton Square, the one on Park Avenue, or the new one across from Saddle Creek Mall. For questions about hours or to-go orders at the new store, call 753-2218. And as always, they don't deliver.

Straight from Switzerland
This week, Chez Philippe chef Jose Gutierrez will host Rudolf Möller, chef de cuisine at Switzerland's Park Hotel Vitznau. On Wednesday, November 12th, at noon, there will be a chef's table at Chez Philippe featuring an ofeturli (a potato cheese and bacon cake), pan-fried escallop of seabass with scallops on creamy carrot-coriander sauce, and meringue and fresh fruits ($35). On Thursday at 11:30 a.m. at Dux, the chefs will hold a ladies luncheon and cooking demonstration, featuring such dishes as a seafood hot-pot with vegetables in a fennel-saffron marinade and a Lucerne-style cream of apples ($28). On Friday at 7 p.m. at Chez Philippe, Gutierrez and Möller will team up again to prepare a multi-course meal, which will include a red onion and artichoke cream soup, salad with scampi and caramelized melon, Zurich-style veal with fresh beans and rosti, and chocolate mousse ($65). Call Rick Roberts at 529-4179 for more information.

Take a Break

Cafe Palladio is worth the stop.

by Louisa Koeppel

have always been intrigued by the building at 2169 Central Ave. It seems so fragile. With its enormous stained-glass awning and the accompanying stained-glass windows wrapping around the structure, it's a wonder it hasn't been vandalized. I think I have driven past it a thousand times, always too busy to stop and take a look inside. But this past week, I found a reason to take a respite from my schedule.

The name of the establishment is Palladio. For quite a few years it has been an antique mall, housing booths for different venders to show their wares. This is no flea market, mind you. The occupants take antiques very seriously. Each booth is decorated to the T, designed to showcase the time period and look of the antiques themselves. Everything seems to be in place -- the furniture, the price tags, the little bird sitting in an old cage, the classical music, the smell of fresh basil wafting through the air. Fresh basil? you may ask. That is correct, and that is the reason I visited Palladio. Of course, I love antiques, and if I had a few thousand dollars just lying around I might have visited this antique mall before, but I stopped by because I was hungry.

Cafe Palladio has been open under the current management for about five months. It serves lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Saturdays from noon until 3 p.m. I visited the cafe twice and had a fine experience both times.

The cafe is situated in the southeast corner of the antique mall, and the feeling there is very warm. Tall arched doorways separate the eating area from the antique area, and refinished columns hold up the ceiling. Antique tables are surrounded by mismatched antique chairs, giving the cafe a rustic feel, and since they are antiques, they are for sale.

My first visit to Palladio was a solo mission. I am always in search of restaurants that are friendly to the single diner, and this cafe is very comfortable. This particular day had been cold in the morning, but as the sun came up, the crisp air turned warm. I didn't want anything too heavy, so I went for the curry chicken salad. The chicken is combined with toasted almonds, roasted red pepper, sprouts, and curried mayo. I assumed that it would taste like the typical curried chicken salad found in several eating establishments around the city, but there was something different about the version at Palladio. One difference is the dense pumpernickel bread, adding an earthiness to the refreshing sandwich. The other reason is that the mayonnaise is homemade. In fact, all the mayos -- and the chef makes quite a few varieties -- are made by hand. This attention to quality is what makes the sandwiches at the cafe stand out. Gone is the overblown, gooey taste of jarred dressing -- in its place is a rich, fresh, complement to the rest of the sandwich fillers. I also tried a few side items, and they were equally good. The potato salad was excellent. The fact that the spuds are roasted gives the salad a nice chewy texture and adds a smoky favor. Another enjoyable side dish was the pepper slaw. Made in the typical fashion, the cabbage slaw is taken to new heights with the added red bell pepper and the creamy handmade mayonnaise.

On my second trip to Palladio, the day could not have been more different. The weather outside was cold, wet, and icky, and I was concerned that the menu offerings might not live up to my need to warm up. My worries went away when the food was brought to the table. My marinated eggplant sandwich was perfect for a cold day. The eggplant starts off in a marinade of balsamic vinegar and olive oil, a simple mixture but still distinctive in flavor. After the eggplant is grilled, it is layered with fresh basil leaves, tomato, provolone cheese, and pesto mayo. Be sure to have plenty of napkins, as the juicy eggplant tends to drip and slide. With my sandwich, I ordered red beans and rice, which was the offering for soup of the day. This version was soupier than the super dense dish I was expecting, but there are no complaints from me. It was one of the best soups I have eaten, and the surprising dollop of sour cream added a refreshing finish.

My companion ordered the hot cajun roast beef sandwich. This hearty sandwich is accompanied by grilled onions, fresh spinach, Swiss cheese, and horseradish sauce. The spinach is a welcome change from typical lettuce, and once again, the freshness factor comes in to play. That is because the cafe roasts and smokes its own meats.

I had only two disappointments. The pasta salad, while fresh and tasty, was made with spaghetti noodles. A more interestingly shaped pasta would hold the dressing better, and would also make it easier to eat. Also, the piece of Palladio cake was dry and lacked flavor. However, the homemade cookies are a pleasant finish to the meal.

After eating at Cafe Palladio, I feel that I had found a gem. The friendly chef and assistant behind the counter encourage the customers to look around the booths while their food is being prepared. I encourage you to go eat.