Eastward Ho! Shogun's menu is hard to understand but easy to like. by Louisa Koeppel he fusion of Eastern and Western cultures has rapidly grown in the restaurant world. Spurred by California chefs, this marriage of flavors and preparation has slowly but surely made its way east across the continent. Even places like T.G.I. Friday's and Applebee's offer Pacific Rim dinners and Asian-influenced menu items. Why this interest in the Asian style, and particularly the Japanese way of cooking? I would hope because of the adventurous spirit that nestles in the hearts of all of us. More likely, though, it is because we Americans have finally wised up to the fact that Japanese cuisine is healthier, simpler, and better looking than our usual fare, whatever that is. Here in Memphis, restaurants specializing in Japanese cuisine and sushi are becoming easier to find. Shogun of Memphis, located in Poplar Plaza, is the newest of these establishments. Opened by the same family that owns A-Tan Chinese restaurant across Poplar, this Shogun is in no way affiliated with the chain of sushi bars of the same name that are popular in Alabama, Illinois, and Georgia. On three visits to this Shogun, I found, for the most part, fresh ingredients, nice presentation, and a knowledgeable and friendly staff. Let me start with the staff. Unless the customer has spent time in Japan, knows Japanese, or is with someone who does, the menu is practically no help. There are no descriptions of the items offered. I know a bit about food, but I'll be darned if I know the difference between Shabu Shabu and Isobeage. The servers do, though, and very well. On one night, our server talked us through pretty much the whole menu, and didn't act put out. The appetizer list at Shogun is extensive -- more than 30 items. The sautéed shiitake mushrooms were wonderfully smoky morsels, standing on their flavor alone. Nothing could be more simple or divine. The crab dumplings, or shumai, were wrapped in what seems to be green wonton paper and steamed. With some wasabi and Asian mustard, these little suckers packed quite a punch and will clear the sinuses of any allergy sufferer. For those who have a hankering for deep-fried goodness, the tempura shrimp and vegetables were good, but a little on the greasy side. Less time in the fryer would have done them a world of good. My table's favorite appetizer, and the simplest menu offering, was the Edamame. These are a green type of soybean, steamed, and sprinkled with coarse salt. It is the diner's job to shuck the tender beans from their jackets and let loose these little pearls of subtle, satisfying flavor. Be careful, though, as these critters are apt to shoot across the table and into the laps of companions. The entrées on the menu can be quite intimidating, but again with the server's help, it is not impossible. There are dinners that feature teriyaki-style meats and vegetables as well as kushiyaki (skewers), grilled offerings, and udon noodle soups. For those who want to experience more than one style of Japanese cooking, the special dinners cover a variety of combinations. The Shogun Dinner, for example, combines a number of sushi styles. Shrimp tempura rolls, nigiri, and sashimi came on a lacquer plate accompanied by pickled ginger, wasabi, and fresh grated Japanese radish. Having had several of Shogun's sushi rolls, I would have preferred more variety here. The spicy crawfish was particularly good, though, and so was the blue crab. The sashimi (raw fish, no rice) included tuna and salmon. Both were as fresh as could be, full-flavored and addictive. The nigiri (raw fish on rice) was just as delectable, particularly the eel and the yellow tail. The Oceana Dinner includes a beautiful array of lobster, grilled salmon, sautéed scallops, and vegetable tempura. The lobster, while flavorful, was overcooked, as was the salmon. The scallops, however, were fabulous. Served on a bed of trendy greens, the tender scallops were lightly topped with an intriguing vinaigrette. My companions and I could not pinpoint all the flavors, but sweet onion and a hint of Tabasco were prevalent. Another companion's beef teriyaki was cooked to a perfect medium-rare and could have fed a family of four. We ended the meal with a refreshing red-bean ice cream, one of several ice-cream dishes at Shogun. The red-bean ice cream had a strawberry, without being overbearing, sweetness. Shogun seems to be doing well on the business end. So well, in fact, that it will soon open a Cordova location. Perhaps the new restaurant will better house the exotic food with a more interesting environment. While I appreciate the etched glass and the painted glass ceiling, the Poplar Plaza Shogun maintains a "Perkin's-esque" feel. Now, if you will excuse me, I have to find out what Shabu Shabu is. Dining Notes Tapas Tapped McEwen's on Monroe, located downtown, has expanded and now features a tapas bar. Tapas bars originated in Spain and refer to the small, appetizer-size offerings available. Usually, several items are ordered and shared by small groups. The McEwen's menu includes eggplant caviar, ceviche, smoked catfish salad, and white-bean hummus. Try any number of these with the great wine list. Chef John Pearson has also been busy adding to the already delectable dinner menu. Look for smoked quail in orange chipolte pepper glaze and couscous paella. Also available are seared scallops, black mussels in Jamaican "Run Down" sauce, and tuna in Finadini. The tapas bar is open Tuesday though Thursday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. and on Sundays until at least 11 p.m. For reservations or more information about McEwen's, call 527-7085. Pie in Disguise Looking for a pie/cake? Head to Poconut Pie Company, located in Eastgate Shopping Center between the Burlington Coat Factory and Radio Shack. Owners Audrey and Ron Anderson are working their magic, baking and preparing 19 different pies, including the "Slap Your Mamma" chocolate pie, which comes looking like a cake. Served in sheet form, this pie/cake can be decorated for any occasion. Samples of this and other pies are available, and orders can be placed by calling 761-0743. North by Northwest Atlanta Bread Company is coming to Memphis. The five-year-old chain from Georgia is heading our way with the help of Mary Ann Clark and her daughter Lesly Clark. The mother/daughter team is working to get the store, at 4770 Poplar, open by July 27th. The store, which is across the street from Dan West nursery, will feature breads, baguettes, bagels, pastries, and more. Breakfast sandwiches will be available, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch. One of the specialties will be the Loaf o' Soup served in a "bowl" of sourdough bread. Atlanta Bread Company will also have a full-service coffee bar. Hours will be 6:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Sundays.