Down to Earth Mambo Chacha offers a simple and fabulous taste of Cuba. by LOUISA KOEPPEL don't drive up Jackson Avenue very often. It is not the prettiest street in the world, and navigation around the Interstate can be a pain. To me, it represents a sort of dilapidated consumerism, a business opportunity that time forgot. Heading up Jackson, there are more businesses that are closed and overgrown with weeds than ones open and thriving. However, in the midst of this, members of the ever-growing Latino community have found a place to sell their wares and promote their community. One of these places is Mambo Chacha Restaurant, a Mexican/Cuban establishment located at 4108 Jackson. Here, they not only excel in the simplest of Mexican food but also in the earthy tastes and textures of Cuban cuisine. Mambo Chacha is a small building set back from the street. While the sign reads "Now Open," I found locked doors on my first visit, even though the menu states they are open seven days a week. Fortunately, my second try was successful, and so was the third. A friend and I had lunch and dinner there, and through it all, we discussed the atmosphere and what is expected when it comes to little restaurants that are less about the ambience and more about the food. My friend's argument was that, like the cuisine, the atmosphere seemed authentic, without frills. I fully agreed with this but would still have liked some candles on the tables to soften up the stark lighting. It was obvious, though, that the owners of Mambo Chacha had taken the decor into account, and one of them clearly likes robin's egg blue, for almost every surface is painted in that color. The white lace curtains also add a sweet touch. Practically everything we tried was down-right fabulous. The goodness of the dishes relied on simplicity. Spices did not mask the flavors of the main ingredients, but brought out their natural flavors so that they stood on their own. The mixture of black beans and rice that accompanied most of the Cuban dishes was cooked in such a way as not to become a gooey mush. And while it was clear that cumin was used to enhance this dish, it did nothing to cover the natural earthiness of the two ingredients. We really could not get enough of the stuff. For lunch, we tried other offerings from both the Cuban and Mexican menus. From the Cuban menu, we tried the #6 Special of congris, bistec, tostones, and ensalada. What came to me was a plate piled high with the yummy black beans and rice, along with a pounded pork chop and fried plantains. The pork chop, covered in tangy onions and marinated in a salty seasoning, was delicious and brought out the hidden sweetness of the beans and rice. The plantains, with their soft, full chew, rounded out a plate of varying tastes and textures. The Mexican menu was pleasant as well. The avocado tortas were a fine layer of pintos in a ranchero sauce, a bit of cheese, lettuce, tomato, and avocado piled in a fried tortilla cup. The rest of the flavors, once again, did not overshadow the huge slices of avocado, making the main ingredient the focus. The gorritas (I am going by the spelling from their menu. I have seen it spelled gorditas) were equally good. Filled with pulled chicken and fresh veggies, these corn pockets were crispy on the outside and as moist as any good cornbread should be on the inside. The one disappointment was the chicken mole. Although the cocoa-based sauce was flavorful, the chicken was cooked to death, as was the Spanish rice. On a return trip to dinner, we found the place about to close, even though it was 9 p.m. and the menu states they're open until 10:30. They were gracious, however, and decided that we could stay. What we really wanted was paella (a Spanish rice dish that mixes seafood, sausages, and chicken with seasoned rice that somewhere along the way was picked up by Cubans). Unfortunately, Mambo Chacha was out of that dish. The dishes we were served, though, both accompanied by the black bean/rice combination and plantain chips, were even better than lunch. My Filet d'Pescado was a perfectly fried piece of catfish with a brush of a sauce that seemed vinegar-based. I will say with confidence that it was the best catfish I've had in years. My companion's pounded-beefsteak was equally good and just as tender as could be. I enjoy going to many restaurants, but Mambo Chacha actually filled me with happiness. In the midst of Jackson Avenue's bleakness, this little hole-in-the-wall is filled with a grace that is rare. This is evident in the food, and even the quaint atmosphere, but mostly in the care and kindness that the people of Mambo Chacha have for their offerings and the people that partake of them. FOOD NOTES Name Change El Acapulco, a Mexican restaurant located at 3681 Jackson Avenue, has changed its name and also added several new items to its menu. Now called, El "7" Mares Mexican Restaurant, the storefront diner is focusing on more seafood dishes, including fish tacos, shrimp dishes, and the signature soup, Caldo de 7 Mares, which includes catfish, crab, lobster, oysters, scallops, shrimp, and octopus. They also have a brunch menu, featuring all sorts of egg dishes and that popular hang over cure Tripe El. The restaurant has also expanded into the space next door, allowing for more seating and a small bar area. Hours are Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed on Wednesdays. The Cordova Butcher Is every restaurant opening a duplicate in Cordova? It certainly seems that way. The Butcher Shop, located in the 100 block of Front Street and a mainstay in the downtown area, is in the middle of construction on their new place located at 107 South Germantown Road. The restaurant will be near the Agricenter and close to the Walnut Grove exit to Germantown Parkway. While there's no exact opening date as of yet, the owners are shooting for the second or third week of October. The new Butcher Shop will feature their popular downtown menu, with some additions. And yes, the customer will still have the opportunity to cook his or her own steak. East Repeat McAlister's Gourmet Deli has opened a new store at 7990 Trinity Road in Cordova. The deli offers an array of items, several of which are vegetarian. Their well-known baked potatoes can be dished up in all kinds of forms -- from the usual butter, sour cream, and cheese combinationto the potato topped with pot roast, carrots, and McAlister's "Come-Back" gravy. Besides the wide range of sandwiches and salads, the deli's sweet iced tea is touted as the best in town. McAlister's is a chain restaurant that started in an old gas station in Oxford, Mississippi. It's open seven days a week and has an additional store in Poplar Plaza off Highland. To contact the Cordova store (they do catering), call 737-7282.