From Schnitzel to Sauerbraten Teutonic palate-pleasers abound at Erika’s downtown. by CAROL BOKER As I briskly walked down Union Avenue, fighting the wind tugging at my coat, my stomach roared, “Lunchtime,” while my brain hollered, “Comfort food!” My Pennsylvania Dutch roots dictate pork and sauerkraut as the gratification that soothes my soul during these bouts. And, on this chilly day, only one downtown establishment came to mind. Erika’s beckoned. My friend and I turned north at The Peabody and walked a half block to Erika’s German & American Restaurant at 52 S. Second Street, the establishment’s location since 1977. The tables were already more than half-full with what appeared to be mostly downtown workers. The hostess seated us in the corner near the front, a good spot to peruse the atmosphere and the clientele. We found that lunch at Erika’s, served Tuesday through Friday, is a casual affair — no white tablecloths or fancy china. Luncheon offerings usually include three specials and about eight German and eight American regular entrées. Chicken or tuna salad plates and a number of sandwiches, including the all-American hamburger, round out the menu. For those diet-conscious individuals, cottage cheese and fruit, not your stereotypical idea of heavy German fare, await their pleasure, if you’d like to call it that. My friend chose one of the specials, Wiener schnitzel, veal dipped in egg, breaded, and lightly sautéed ($5.45). I ordered Kassler rippchen ($5.45) from the main menu, making this selection only after learning from our helpful waitress that it was a smoked pork chop. (Perhaps translations on the lunch menu would help non-German-speaking customers like me.) The wait staff at Erika’s is definitely older and more experienced than at many restaurants in Memphis. But just because the theme is German, don’t expect service from frauleins attired in Octoberfest-garb. While waiting for our orders, we nibbled on (okay ... we devoured) the warm, crusty yeast rolls baked daily by Erika Seipel, who is still the restaurant’s main chef. We also absorbed the surroundings, such as the red brick walls, typical of many old downtown buildings. Wall hangings throughout the restaurant included German travel posters and landscape paintings, and shelves held the typical beer steins and old-world bric-a-brac. The center of the large room, fondly called “the pit,” consisted of a work station on one side and a cooking station on the other for keeping food warm and plating it. (The latter would make a wonderful bar if Erika provided high bar stools and German lagers and ales on tap.) The “pit” area actually reminded me of the cockpit of a serious German sports car — very functional and everything within easy reach. When our lunches arrived, the Wiener schnitzel was tender and not at all greasy. In many German restaurants, schnitzel often comes topped with lemon slices or hard-cooked egg; however, Erika’s uses sautéed mushrooms, a nice touch, even though the mushrooms seemed to be the canned variety rather than fresh. Crispy fried potatoes and tender sauerkraut (substituted for a salad) complemented the schnitzel. The hefty Kassler rippchen almost covered my plate, but thankfully there was still room for the rest of my “fix” — sauerkraut and light, fluffy creamed potatoes (known as mashed in many circles). The pork chop was tender and juicy with a light smoky taste, but its size commanded a to-go box. My motto: “One never wastes comfort food.” While the luncheon scene at Erika’s was quick, efficient, and relatively inexpensive, I decided to return on a weekend night, since it only serves dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. Even though the restaurant has no private parking, there are quite a few reasonably priced lots nearby, and the building is also a quick walk from the trolley stop at Union and Main. Upon entering the restaurant, my friends and I were surprised at the evening atmosphere — white cloths and linen napkins adorned the tables and soft music played in the background. I rather expected some German oompah music, but Erika seems to have found the ambiance that works best for her clientele. About a dozen tables were occupied, including a large group. It was a mixed crowd, from college-age pals to older couples, from the very casually attired to those dressed to the nines, perhaps heading to The Orpheum after dinner. The evening menu offered a few appetizers and approximately 15 German-style entrées. There was also filet mignon for those less-adventuresome diners. We feasted on Kassler rippchen ($8.65 for the evening plate, but about the same amount of food as the lunch), sauerbraten ($10.20), and Wiener werstcha, basically a German hot dog ($5.80). The sauerbraten, beef marinated in a sweet-sour sauce then browned and simmered for several hours, was fork-tender and served in a light gravy having a nice tart finish. Side dishes included the sauerkraut and creamed potatoes, as well as flavorful potato pancakes, delicately spongy potato dumplings (delicious, but too few served), and a light vinegary-tasting red cabbage. Erika’s offered no beers on tap, but we settled for Beck’s dark and light bottled beers to complement and wash down the entrées. The absence of a liquor license prevents the restaurant from serving wine or hard liquor, but patrons can bring their own wine, and the staff will provide setups for 75 cents per person. To end the meal, we shared the cheesecake and lemon pie. Although both were acceptable, I would suggest skipping the desserts. Concentrate on Erika’s main fare, which is hearty, but not heavy. Those entrées and side dishes impart the German flavors you want lingering on your palate. You can e-mail Carol Boker at letters@memphisflyer.com.