Shipshape From its decor to its menu items, Anderton's presents a pleasant flashback to earlier times. by CAROL BOKER PHOTO BY JOHN LANDRIGAN The oysters are hard to beat. I first ate at Anderton's Restaurant and Oyster Bar many years ago as a newcomer to Memphis. I was looking for fresh seafood, and given that the restaurant, located at 1901 Madison, had been serving patrons since the mid-Fifties, I figured it was a good a place to start as any. For some reason, though, I never returned. My recent visits provided a new perspective. ATMOSPHERE: Anderton's reminds me of an old-style supper club -- perhaps in Miami. Wood-paneled walls, a soothing color scheme, and soft lighting hidden behind an aqua and white textured ceiling provide a cozy Art Deco feel. Trellises adorned with fishnets, glass floats, fake horseshoe crabs and puffer fish, and miniature colored lights separate the two main dining areas. Some of the original hanging light fixtures and the clock over the front door look like accessories only Flashbacks on Central might offer. In a separate lounge and oyster bar area, customers belly up to a large ship complete with mast and rigging. Be careful if you go; gazing at the wall murals may lead to fantasizing about sailing and pirate adventures. The bar was part of the original Anderton's, which operated downtown (151 Madison) from 1945 to 1976. BEVERAGES: It seemed only natural at Anderton's to begin our meal with a drink from a bygone era -- Rob Roy, highball, gimlet, manhattan. (Another patron must have had the same feeling; he stopped by to ask us about the manhattan and how to order it.) The restaurant offers the usual nonalcoholic beverages, beer, a few wines by the glass, and 20 or so reasonably priced wines by the bottle. STARTERS: A group of us dining at Anderton's one Friday evening tried a variety of appetizers. The oyster-lover among us ordered a dozen au natural and proclaimed them, "hard to beat." They were large but very fresh and succulent, with a pleasing sea-salty flavor. A second order on a subsequent visit led him to proclaim they were even better than many he had sampled at the Gulf. We tried other appetizers, including an excellent crab cocktail, loaded with huge pieces of crabmeat; oysters Rockefeller, which were tender and tasty; and gumbo, filled with seafood, okra, and veggies but needing a bit more spiciness. SEAFOOD: About half the menu at Anderton's includes fish, lobster, crab, and shrimp variations. The stuffed pompano ($14.95) came with crabmeat en papillot, baked in a piece of parchment paper. The fish was cooked perfectly. My only disappointment was the crabmeat stuffing, filled with more breading than crabmeat. The hot seafood platter ($13.95) presented a combination of fresh catfish, shrimp, and crab cake, all fried in a crunchy, light cornmeal coating. The platter also held scallops, lightly floured and also deep-fried. Another evening we ordered the special, a delicious fresh grouper, which was broiled in a lemon-butter sauce. (Not all the seafood is fried, so those weight-conscious individuals can find appropriate entrées.) OTHER ENTRÉES: Besides seafood, Anderton's also serves steaks, chops, and chicken. Beef tenderloin is recommended on the menu. We, however, opted for the 13-ounce sirloin cooked medium. It arrived tender and savory -- but definitely overcooked. Another special, pork tenderloin medallion wrapped in bacon and accompanied by several broiled shrimp offered an enjoyable mix of flavors. SIDES: Besides the usual baked potatoes and fries, diners can order a potato stuffed with cheese and red bell pepper. The latter was inconsistent -- fluffy on one visit and a bit dry on another. Dinner salads consisted of mostly flavorless iceberg lettuce. Dressings were good, except the blue cheese was a little heavy on mayonnaise and light on the sharp flavor. If you prefer small amounts of dressing, ask for it on the side because they pile it on. I suggest the sides of eggplant Creole, filled with fried eggplant in a stewed-tomato-like sauce, or the beets, pickled with just the right amount of sweetness. (And make sure you taste the garlic toasts and warm rolls set before you.) DESSERTS: I can't leave a place without a little sugar. We shared the lemon ice box pie (sweet filling with whipped cream and a flaky crust) and black bottom pie (a rich chocolate custard layer topped with a rum custard layer -- although the latter was a little granular and dense.) The apple dumplings came highly recommended by a coworker, so we made another trip to test it out. Fresh apples in sweet pastry swimming in a luscious syrup. This dessert won hands down. WAIT STAFF: On Friday and Saturday nights, a steady stream of hungry diners moved through Anderton's. I always assumed an older Midtown crowd frequented the restaurant, and many are just that, but families with children, college students, and young couples occupied the tables as well. During all our visits the hostess and wait staff, although busy with customers and orders and demands, remained pleasant and attentive. LUNCHES: I wondered if Anderton's lunchtime would be as popular, so we checked it out on a Wednesday. The crowded restaurant served daily hot-plate specials, sandwiches, and salads. Luncheon prices average about $6.25. The cold seafood platter came piled with fresh tuna, salmon, shrimp, and crabmeat salads, in addition to a few cold shrimp and tomato slices. In two other choices, the broiled halibut and fried trout tenderloins, the fresh fish remained moist and tender, although the cornmeal coating on the trout was a little heavy. Many restaurants suffer from fickle patrons who jump ship when a new place opens in town. Anderton's longevity on Madison demonstrates that pleasant ambience, good food at reasonable prices, and reliable service can keep them coming back for more. I don't know what's taken me so long to return. You can e-mail Carol Boker at letters@memphisflyer.com. FOOD NOTES Strings and Food Things Now when musicians head to the Strings & Things Music Mall, at 1559 Madison, for drum heads, amp cords, or mike stands, they can stop at Obadiah's Cafe for a light lunch or an espresso and cheesecake. Obadiah's, locally owned and operated by Ann Ruff, Scotti Ruff, and Tom and Stephanie Owen, began business in February in the mall's atrium. The cafe, open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., provides breakfast items, soups and salads, sandwiches, pastas, desserts, and an assortment of coffees. Call 722-2266. A Little Soul Needed In the vicinity of AutoZone Park at 116 Fourth Street, the aptly named Red Bird Cafe is for those who have a taste for soul food. Owned by Marshall Chism, the cafe dishes up hot wings, giant burgers, chicken tenders, and good ol' chitlin's from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily, with longer hours on Fridays and Saturdays. Chism's planning a special pregame party April 1st where he'll be giving away some hot wings. For more information about the cafe, call 528-1699. Pizza, Pizza On the other side of the ballfield, at 317 Madison, sits a mom-and-pop pizza restaurant, the Somewhere Pizza Cafe, which just opened. Operated by Cathy and Greg Thibodaux, the cafe serves personal pan pizzas and thick- and thin-crust larger pizzas, all with a variety of fresh toppings. Salads and sandwiches are also available. Patrons can dine in, dine out on the patio, or take it with them. Their free parking is a plus. Call 526-HERE. Cue Up Clicks Billiards and Sports Cafe just opened at 3705 Malco Way, next to the Majestic Theatre at Winchester and Riverdale. Clicks, headquartered in Dallas, provides the sporting crowd with 16 billiards tables, 2 large-screen TVs, 11 monitors, and a full-service bar. The Sports Cafe offers a lunch menu of deli sandwiches and a regular menu from 4 p.m. on that includes chicken wings, quesadillas, fish and chips, salads, burgers, and other sandwiches.