Salmon pastrami is on the Rumble Fish pop-up menu. (Credit: David Lorrison)

Rumble Fish is back โ€” again.

David Lorrison, who opened the short-lived Midtown restaurant known as Rumble Fish at 1911 Poplar Avenue about 25 years ago, is returning to Erling Jensenโ€™s: The Restaurant at 1044 South Yates Road for another pop-up at 6:30 p.m. on November 19th. His most recent one was held August 20th.

โ€œI plan on doing one there every three to four months,โ€ Lorrison says.  โ€œEvery season โ€” a summer, fall, winter, spring kind of thing. It might lead to some other work.โ€

Lorrison, who is now with Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices Taliesyn Realty, says, โ€œReal estate is a little rough these days.โ€ Cooking, he says, โ€œmakes me happy.โ€

Rumble Fish, which closed 18 years ago, adjoined the Hi Tone Cafe, which Lorrison also owned. A little bowl with one betta fish in it was placed on each of the 12 tables. White Japanese lanterns hung from the ceiling. Black-and-white photographs were attached to fish wire with clothes pins. The French-bistro-inspired cuisine was critically acclaimed.

Hereโ€™s the menu for the November 19th five-course dinner:

Amuse Bouche: Flying Fish roe and creme fraiche potato latkes

Cream of celery root with pancetta and fennel

Salmon pastrami with beet cabbage sauerkraut and fried half sour pickles

Pan-roasted breast of duck with pumpkin beurre blanc and cranberry sweet-potato lyonnaise

Sea bass with foie gras butter

Chambord creme brรปlรฉe with chocolate and raspberries

Asked what makes this menu different from his first pop-up with Jensen in August, Lorrison says, โ€œThe last one was kind of stuff I know.โ€ The new menu features items, including salmon pastrami, which Lorrison hasn’t cooked before. “It came out well,” he says. โ€œIโ€™m a fan of root vegetables:  beets, celery root, fennel, and any type of potato: the purple, the sweet potato,and the Yukon gold.โ€

Lorrison is looking forward to the pop-up. โ€œI like physical work with some creativity thrown in,” he says. “And I think Iโ€™ve been lacking that the last few years. โ€œMy life goal is to cook and sell houses. A double life.โ€

To make a reservation, call Erling Jensen: The Restaurant at 901 763-3700 or go to erlings@ejensen.com.

Michael Donahue began his career in 1975 at the now-defunct Memphis Press-Scimitar and moved to The Commercial Appeal in 1984, where he wrote about food and dining, music, and covered social events until...