Sweetbreads at Restaurant Iris 

Sweetbreads at Restaurant Iris

The sweetbreads appetizer at Restaurant Iris is a playful spin on the classic dish of chicken and dumplings. If you've ever wondered what sweetbreads are, they're the thymus gland of a young cow. But don't let that scare you off. When prepared correctly, sweetbreads can be exquisite. At Restaurant Iris, Chef Kelly English puts them through multiple treatments, including poaching and brining. This results in something tender and succulent with a slightly sweet yet savory earthiness. They come served over house-made gnocchi that are light as air with a pillowy tenderness. The sauce is deep and rich like a concentrated broth that coats the gnocchi and sweetbreads yet doesn't weigh them down. The dish accomplishes what so many like it strive for: elegant and elevated comfort food.

Michael Hughes

Restaurant Iris, 2146 Monroe (590-2828)
restaurantiris.com

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