Noted chef Judd Grisanti in Marshall Steakhouse kitchen (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Judd Grisanti prepared his first dinners on Monday, May 19th, at Marshall Steakhouse in Holly Springs, Mississippi. Or, as the restaurantโ€™s owner Randall Swaney, dubbed it: โ€œMarshall Grisanti.โ€

Grisanti, a chef whose restaurants include the former Spindini, is the son of the late restaurateur Ronnie Grisanti. He will be cooking his Italian cuisine at Marshall’s on Mondays and Tuesdays, the days the restaurant formerly was closed. Judd and Swaney, who are longtime friends, thought it would be a perfect fit.

Apparently, it was.

โ€œI thought it was huge,โ€ Swaney says. โ€œIt was more people than we anticipated. So, thatโ€™s a win. A little over 100, which was great. Thatโ€™s what we would have on a Wednesday night or a Thurdsay night. So, to get that on a Monday, is really good.โ€

Instead of the usual background music, customers dined to vocals by appropriate-for-the-night songsters, including Luciano Pavarotti. โ€œIt went from classic country to classic Italian,โ€ Swaney says.

The menu for โ€œMarshall Steakhouse Italian Editionโ€ includes filet, ribeye, and New York Strip steaks, and Juddโ€™s iconic โ€œFiletto di Menzo Con Gorgonzola,โ€ an eight-ounce prime filet with, according to the menu, โ€œroasted encrusted applewood bacon wrapped and stuffed with gorgonzola, served with veal demi red wine reduction.โ€

The rest of the menu features Grisanti dishes, some old favorites and some new.

I wanted to be the first diner Monday night, so I got to the restaurant about 4 p.m. I ordered some of my personal favorite Grisanti items, at least a couple of which Iโ€™ve written about over the years. 

While looking over the items, I stopped at โ€œPasta Alla Elfo,โ€ popularly known among Grisanti fans as โ€œElfo Special.โ€ I knew that was going to be my entree. The taste of that dish is so memorable. The menu reads, โ€œThe Original Recipe created by my grandfather โ€˜Elfo.โ€™ Jumbo shrimp sautรฉed in garlic and butter and tossed with mushrooms, hint of white pepper over vermicelli with parmigiana Reggiano.โ€

I was very happy when I saw one of my all-time-favorite soups, โ€œZuppa Di Isabella,โ€which Judd created and named after his daughter. The menu describes it as โ€œAsparagus bisque with butter poached Maine lobster.โ€ It was delicious.

The famous โ€œMiss Maryโ€™s Saladโ€ โ€” tomato, lettuce, onion, with the traditional Grisantiโ€™s chianti vinaigrette dressing โ€” also was part of my order. And, for dessert, I selected Juddโ€™s cannolis: โ€œA crispy tube-shaped shell filled with a sweet, creamy ricotta-based filling.โ€

It was an excellent meal.

I called Judd the next day to see how he felt about his first night.

โ€œI think it went great,โ€ he says. โ€œI was overwhelmed with all the response. Social media and everybody calling and making comments has been overwhelming. So, expectations were high. You get excited, but itโ€™s almost like, โ€˜Be careful for what you wish for.โ€™โ€

Asked what dishes were the most poplar Monday night, Judd says, โ€œThe Elfo was very popular, of course. The rigatoni and peppers. And the chicken parmigiana.โ€

More items will be added. โ€œSome things weโ€™ll change and weโ€™ll be adding on more traditional Grisanti items as well.โ€

Swaney surprised him with the Italian music at dinner, Judd says. โ€œIt made me feel at home. It made me feel like I was back at Grisantiโ€™s on Poplar. It was a nice touch. All I could do was think of Pop.โ€

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Michael Donahue began his career in 1975 at the now-defunct Memphis Press-Scimitar and moved to The Commercial Appeal in 1984, where he wrote about food and dining, music, and covered social events until...