Dinnertime at Bain Barbecue & Bakery soft opening. (Credit: Ryan Glosson)

Passed appetizers, menu samples, or a seated dinner with a limited menu is what Iโ€™ve found to be the norm at new restaurant soft openings.

Not so at Bain Barbecue & Bakery.

I was among the 70 people who attended what chef/co-owner Bryant Bain called the โ€œsoft opening for the soft openingโ€ on June 2nd for the new restaurant at 993 South Cooper Street in Cooper-Young.ย Another soft opening is planned.

โ€œWe are currently open to the public for breakfast,โ€ Bain says. Theyโ€™ll begin serving lunch and dinner June 10th at the beautiful, light and airy restaurant in the old Stone Soup space.

Bain recounted the evening’s menu: โ€œAppetizer was house queso with choice of brisket or pork. Main plate was brisket, ribs, pork, a half chicken, and our scratch-made sausages, one regular and one jalapeรฑo cheddar. The sides were mac and cheese, baked potato salad, brisket pinto beans, and lime cilantro slaw. Dessert was pecan pie, crack pie, vanilla cakes, chocolate cake, or strawberry cake.โ€

That main plate heaped with food resembled more of a Thanksgiving dinner instead of a soft opening. โ€œGroaning boardโ€ was an accurate term for what the picnic table (I ate outdoors with friends) resembled with our overflowing trays.

The food was delicious. First was the queso appetizer by itself like a soup instead of with chips. I thought that was all I was going to get to eat, so I also ate almost all the chips in the basket. I was mighty surprised when an enormous platter of food appeared. It was even more surprising when Bainโ€™s wife, Heather, said, โ€œWait โ€” we forgot this.โ€ And co-owner Ryan Glosson added the half chicken breast to my plate.

Later, when I was walking out the door, somebody asked, โ€œDonโ€™t you want dessert?โ€ I was about to fall in love with Bainโ€™s vanilla cake.

โ€œHaley Stephens is our head baker,โ€ Bain says. โ€œAll my recipes, but she pours her heart and soul into everything she makes.โ€

And then something else Iโ€™ve never seen at a soft opening party: a blessing of the smoker. The Rev. Canon Sharon A. Alexander of The Episcopal Diocese of West Tennessee did the honors. Guests gathered outside to watch.

ย The smokerโ€™s name, by the way, is โ€œPeggy.โ€ย 

ย โ€œ โ€˜Peggyโ€™ is for โ€˜Peggy Hillโ€™ from King of the Hill,โ€ Bain says. โ€œI name all my pits after my favorite cartoon women. Peggy Hill is a strong Texas woman and King of the Hill was a show far before its time.โ€

Bain, whose hometown is Hillje, Texas, originally opened his food truck, which specialized in Texas craft-style brisket. After he closed it, several peopleย discussed partnering on some sort of business. But when Glosson talked to him, they just clicked.

Michael Donahue began his career in 1975 at the now-defunct Memphis Press-Scimitar and moved to The Commercial Appeal in 1984, where he wrote about food and dining, music, and covered social events until...