Jeff McCraw, Whitney Fullerton, and chef de cuisine Gannon Hamilton (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Not many chefs will tell you painting an automobile is the same as preparing a dish, but Jeff โ€œChef Jeffโ€ McCraw says just that. 

โ€œMixing paint is the visual version of building a recipe,โ€ says McCraw, 55, who spent more than 35 years in the automobile collision repair business before moving across the street to become executive chef at his girlfriend Whitney Fullertonโ€™s restaurant, Chef Jeffโ€™s, at 1825 Vanderhorn.

McCraw feels the area needed a restaurant. โ€œWeโ€™re right at Covington Pike. Youโ€™ve got car dealers. Youโ€™ve also got industrial supply places, HVAC suppliers, warehouses โ€” a lot of companies.โ€ He did the demographics and discovered that โ€œ11,000 people punch in from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. And thereโ€™s no place to eat out there.โ€ And that doesnโ€™t include shoppers.

Since going to work at Chef Jeffโ€™s, McCraw says, โ€œIโ€™ve gotten a regular following that is very faithful.โ€ The restaurant serves breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday, but McCraw will hold a pop-up with 6 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. seatings on September 11th.

Describing his fare, McCraw says, โ€œThereโ€™s a twist on everything. Weโ€™re all clean, whole food. Weโ€™re all scratch. We donโ€™t use anything canned. We donโ€™t use anything processed. We donโ€™t buy anything cooked. We use hand-cut fries. We cut them and blanch them. We brine and smoke our own meat.โ€

Along with his smoked turkey and other sandwiches on the menu, diners will find McCrawโ€™s โ€œMemphis Reubenโ€. Itโ€™s similar to the classic pastrami sandwich, but itโ€™s on grilled sourdough focaccia instead of rye bread. 

And, he says, โ€œWeโ€™re a sourdough bakery, too.โ€ McCraw makes his sourdough bread from a 236-year-old starter named โ€œIsabelle,โ€ which he got from a friend in Washington state. โ€œI already had a two-year-old starter on my own. So we made a hybrid with hers.โ€ He uses sourdough in his cinnamon rolls, hoagies, hamburger buns, and fried pies.

McCraw is a purist when it comes to ingredients. โ€œEven when they say โ€˜organic,โ€™ I donโ€™t buy it. We try to get our hands on everything local we possibly can.โ€

Art was his first creative expression as a child. He took classes at the old Memphis Academy of Arts (before it became the Memphis College of Art) from the third to sixth grades. โ€œI did it all,โ€ he says. But he was โ€œrushed and messy. I would make a mess of anything on paper. So, sculpture ended up being my thing.โ€

McCraw began cooking for his family when he was eight years old. โ€œI was a latchkey kid. Honestly, I didnโ€™t like hearing my mother complain about having to come from work and clean and cook dinner.โ€ And, he says, โ€œanything you wanted to eat, you had to cook it.โ€ 

McCrawโ€™s first culinary creation was pizza. โ€œI cut the crust off of some bread and rolled it flat with a rolling pin, put cheddar cheese, and made a pizza with lunch meat on it.โ€

He continued the Italian cuisine route with the spaghetti he made for his first family dinner. โ€œMy mother had a celebrity cookbook. This was Sammy Davis Jr.โ€™s recipe for spaghetti.โ€ It was sweet. โ€œIt had about a tablespoon [of sugar] in a two-pound ground beef batch.โ€

McCraw still loves โ€œanything Italian. I was really interested in hand-rolled pasta. By the time I was 10, I was doing that. And making tortellinis stuffed with ricotta and pesto.โ€

One of his greatest inspirations was On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, by Harold McGee. โ€œHe was a scientist, but he had a big passion for cooking.โ€ McGeeโ€™s topics included โ€œwhat chemical reactions were going on that caused browning in meat. Once I got onto that and learned how emulsions work, I stopped using recipes.โ€ Oil and eggs, for example, create an emulsion called mayonnaise. McCraw discovered he โ€œhad a natural understanding of it.โ€

He originally wanted to be an architect. โ€œI really liked mechanical drawing,โ€ he says, adding, โ€œI never thought I would cook for a living.โ€ He even considered becoming a lawyer when he entered Memphis State University. But, he says, โ€œI dropped out and started an auto detailing shop.โ€ His business, โ€œPerfection Auto Detail,โ€ grew into a โ€œpretty big business.โ€

McCraw later did auto detailing and car cleaning at a car dealership until he was hired by a company that did paint touch-ups for auto dealers. โ€œThatโ€™s where I learned that I had a natural knack for painting and mixing paint and fixing wrecked cars.โ€

Yet he continued to cook. โ€œJust at home. And I always catered.โ€ Heโ€™d barbecue and do other cuisine at events. โ€œI started cooking for groups like that when I was 19. It started with cooking for friends. And friends of friends wanted me to cook for them.โ€ Eventually, McCraw also got jobs โ€” and enjoyed them โ€” working as a line cook at the old The Elegant Farmer and The Grove Grill. โ€œI like the pressure. I like a really high demand.โ€

McCraw still caters, something he wants to develop even more. โ€œThe mission of this place is to have a kitchen plant that runs 24 hours a day. The restaurant would be just one of the outlets.โ€ He also wants to do more baking, which he began doing as a child.

McCraw was running his own body shop near Covington Pike when he โ€œrealized how many people were over here and there was nothing to eat.โ€ While he was still operating the body shop, McCraw and Fullerton began operating โ€œthis little restaurant across the street.โ€ 

On July 1st, 2025, McCraw began working at the restaurant full time. He describes his fare as โ€œsoul food โ€” for lack of a better word. Meatloaf, hamburger steak. Our lasagna does really well when we run it.โ€ Other popular items include his grilled chicken avocado club sandwich. A recent special was his fried green tomato and pimento cheese BLT. He also makes his own rubs, dressings, jellies, and sauerkraut.

He does meal prep three days a week and a โ€œclean version of a Lunchablesโ€ for kids, which might include pizza made with pepperoni, fresh mozzarella, and sourdough bread.

โ€œI love to share what Iโ€™ve learned about gut health,โ€ McCraw says. โ€œI love coming up with new ways to do it.โ€ He created a pecan pie with a โ€œzero glycemic indexโ€ that includes honey, blue agave, and monk fruit.

Nowadays, McCraw has no desire to trade mixing up a batch of red marinara for mixing up a batch of red touchup paint. The auto business is a thing of the past. โ€œI think itโ€™s evolved away from me.โ€

Michael Donahue began his career in 1975 at the now-defunct Memphis Press-Scimitar and moved to The Commercial Appeal in 1984, where he wrote about food and dining, music, and covered social events until...