When I think of summer in Memphis, I immediately start sweating and
get thirsty. My quick fix: a crisp white wine.
One of the best to beat the heat is Grüner Veltliner, the
signature grape of Austria. Grüner has a perfect combination of
acidity, freshness, citrus and stone fruit flavors, and a mineral
quality that makes the wine zippy and bright. In summer, we tend to
want lighter fare such as grilled fish, vegetables, sushi, and salads.
All of these foods match perfectly with Grüner.
One consistent theme for my summer selections is acidity — all
wines need to have it in order to be refreshing. Albariño,
northwestern Spain’s signature grape, fits the bill perfectly. The
grape itself is very high in acidity but is balanced by a high sugar
level as well. This, however, does not equal cloying sweetness, since
most producers ferment their wines dry. It just means that ripe fruit
flavors, such as peach and tangerine, are expressed. Albariño
complements shellfish — shrimp, scallops, clams, etc.
Sauvignon Blanc is another fresh and clean wine for summertime.
While Australia is better known for its reds, I think that its whites
are more interesting.
There aren’t many Aussie Sauvignon Blancs in the Memphis market, but
the ones that are here are delicious. They tend not to have the
overwhelming, and sometimes invasive, gooseberry and grapefruit notes
of New Zealand versions. While citrus is a hallmark of this grape, some
not-so-good versions tend to have just that and nothing more.
When selected wisely, Riesling can be stunning or at the very least
tasty. This grape certainly has its place in the summer wine arsenal.
Dry versions possess some of the most thirst-quenching and refreshing
qualities of any wine and can pair beautifully with summer foods. Their
razor-sharp acidity and bracing citrus and mineral notes are
mouthwatering and just plain fun.
Another interesting grape varietal that has loads of refreshing
qualities is Gewürztraminer. Anderson Valley, California, and
Oregon are excellent sources of dry-style Gewürz. These regions
emphasize the impressive and unique floral characteristics that are a
hallmark of this grape type. The aromas are incredibly enticing with
notes of jasmine, honeysuckle, ginger, and lychee.
Argentina’s signature grape, Torrontes, has some similarities to
Gewürztraminer when it comes to aroma profile. Torrontes also can
have aromas of white flowers and ginger, but it can have rosewater and
orange blossom notes as well. This South American white has loads of
fresh acidity and a zingy texture with flavors of pink grapefruit and
Key lime.
Recommended wines
Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner 2007
Kremstal, Austria $18.99
Licia Albariño 2007 Rias Baixas, Spain
$17.99
D’Arenberg Broken Fishplate Sauvignon
Blanc 2008 Adelaide Hills,
Australia $17.99
FWW Riesling 2007 Wachau, Austria
$15.99
Cono Sur Riesling 2008 Chile $10.99
Handley Cellars Gewürztraminer 2006
Anderson Valley, California $19.99
Foris Gewürztraminer 2007
Rogue Valley, Oregon $15.99
Colome Torrontes 2008 Salta, Argentina
$15.99